One measure only: how completely a hotel delivers what it promises, at the price it asks. Not which is the most beautiful, and not which is the most expensive. They are rarely the same hotel, which is why this is worth reading.
The twenty run from around $250 a night to several thousand, and a hotel at the lower end is held to exactly the same standard as one at the top.
A hotel qualifies only if it has been stayed in and paid for, by us or by someone whose judgement we know first-hand. No press stays, no hosted nights, no exceptions. That rule is the reason some well-known names are missing, and their absence should not be read as a verdict.
Three sources feed the list. Our own stays, which are the largest part. A small circle of friends whose taste we take as seriously as our own: people who have seen the alternatives and are difficult to impress. And the travellers we have planned trips for, who come back and tell us what the hotel actually did.
The ranking is still one judgement, not a vote. Nobody's reading is averaged; every account is weighed, and one editor decides every position. Where another reading and our own instincts pulled apart, theirs was weighted heavier. One hotel on this list sits higher than personal taste would have placed it, because that taste runs to older and quieter places, and a preference is not a standard.
No scores, and no categories out of ten. A hotel is not the sum of six numbers, and pretending otherwise would only disguise the judgement as arithmetic.
EDITED BY SVEN KROONE
1
The most intelligently built hotel on the island, and the only modern one that belongs to its ground the way the old ones do.
2
Almost nobody's favourite hotel in Bali, and close to the best one.
Best Table
3
Not one hotel but five, and which one you get depends on who you are when you arrive.
4
The most beautiful hotel in Bali, and the one that makes you work hardest to see it.
5
The last hotel in Bali that still feels the way Aman used to.
6
Luxury as it looked before it had to compete for attention, and it has not moved since 1989.
7
The best-executed hotel on the island, which is also the reason it never quite recognises you.
8
Written off before it had a chance to grow into itself. The internet wasn't wrong about it, it was early.
9
The most expensive hotel in Bali and the best run on the cliff. Whether that is worth it depends on which of the two you are buying.
10
Lost the Chedi name and kept the staff Zecha trained, which turned out to be the half that mattered.
Least Impressed With Itself
11
Not the hotel to book if you want to be surprised. The one to book if you never want to be disappointed.
12
No walls, no doors, no locks. Book one night, and understand you are buying a concept rather than a hotel.
13
Everything we distrust about how this island is developing, executed with so much conviction that we came round anyway.
14
A walled 1970s estate that the neighbourhood grew around and never got into. People have been coming back for forty years.
Best Architecture
15
A proposal hotel, and entirely unapologetic about it. Few places anywhere commit to a story this completely.
16
The most contrarian advice we give: ask for a clifftop in Uluwatu and we will send you to Nusa Dua instead.
17
A nine in every category and a ten in none, which is a harder thing to build than a highlight.
Best Value
18
A world complete enough that you may never feel the need to leave it, which is either the point or the problem.
19
A narrow plot turned into the best village in Sanur. Book the wrong room category here and it defines the stay.
Best Breakfast
20
It did not get worse. The island moved. Owner-run, on the edge of the gorge, with some of the strongest staff anywhere here.
The finest restaurant on the island, with no caveats attached. French technique bent around Indonesian ingredients by a chef who talks to you first.
Four kitchens send small plates to the same table: cheese crêpes, a prawn omelette, pancake soufflé. The best start to a day on this island, at one of the more modest rates on this list.
Peter Muller drew it around 1971, years before Amandari. Some call it dated, and we understand why. Fifty years on, his idea of what a hotel in Bali should be still hasn't been bettered.
Eighty to ninety percent of the very top of this island, with Como's standards intact, at a rate nobody has to justify afterwards.
Twenty villas on the rice fields, a chef who lives on the estate, staff trained under Adrian Zecha who never left, and no interest whatsoever in telling you how special that is.
Thirty-five hotels were considered and left out. Some because nobody whose judgement we know has stayed in them yet, and we will not rank a property on somebody else's photographs. Some because they are excellent at something this list does not measure. And some because, having paid the bill, we did not think the bill had been earned.
The list is republished once a year. Positions move, and so do hotels: a kitchen changes hands, a building reaches the end of its cycle, a new opening finds its feet. Individual write-ups carry the date of our most recent stay, which is the only honest way to publish a hotel review.
Factual errors are corrected immediately and visibly. Judgements are not. No hotel can pay to enter this list, to move up it, or to leave it, and none has been asked for anything.
At the hotel's own rate, with upgrades, resort credit and breakfast attached where the property offers them. The twenty above are the standard we advise by, not the limit of what we book.
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