2013
COMO Uma Ubud
Bali, Indonesia

A guest and a guide met at COMO Uma Ubud and, against the odds of that particular arrangement, kept talking after the week ended.

Thirteen years later the friendship is still the whole business model. Wayan has spent that time building a network in Bali that isn't for sale and can't be rushed. Sven has spent it inside hotels and restaurants, taking notes nobody asked for. The Banjar Collective is what happens when those two habits are pointed at the same trip.

Sven Kroone, smiling, in a navy jumper by a window
SVEN · THE HOTELS

“For years I inspected hotels anonymously. At two metres tall, anonymous was never really on the table.”

His career in hospitality started as an obsession rather than an ambition: at seventeen, saving up for dinners worth remembering while everyone else was in bars. It became QLI Travel, a magazine that went deep instead of wide — a single dish, a single suite, a single kitchen, taken apart properly.

Somewhere along the way the job changed shape. Less critic, more fixer. He knows which hotel delivers what its photographs promise and which one quietly doesn't, which kitchen earns its stars and which night of the week to eat somewhere else entirely, and how far it actually is between two points on this island once the traffic is in it.

Every property on this site has been slept in by him and written up in full, including the parts that don't flatter it. What that changes about an actual booking is a different page's job.

Wayan in traditional Balinese dress, hands pressed together in greeting, in front of a carved pavilion
WAYAN · THE DAYS

“I don't take people where I'd send a tourist. I take them where I'd take you if you were staying with my family.”

Wayan spent decades inside some of Bali's most respected hotels, running tours and building the kind of days that never made it onto a rate card. He went independent because there is only so much difference one person can make when someone else sets the terms.

Ask him for something authentic and he takes it literally. More than once a call to a cousin of a cousin has ended with a couple standing in a village neither of them could find again on a map, the only outsiders at a ceremony that was happening whether they came or not. He measures everything against Balinese values without ever making a show of it, and he'll arrange something unapologetically touristy just as readily if that's what you actually want.

The whole time, he is quietly working out who you are, so tomorrow's suggestion lands better than today's. That network took a lifetime to build. It isn't for sale, and it can't be hurried.

THE DIVISION OF LABOUR

Neither one pretends to be the other's job.

Wayan handles
  • The days themselves, guided personally rather than handed to a colleague
  • Permissions, offerings, dress and etiquette for anything ceremonial
  • The village, the priest, the craftsman, the chef who answers at nine at night
  • The table set somewhere there shouldn't be one
  • Knowing when to say the timing is wrong, instead of staging a substitute
Sven handles
  • The hotel, matched to how you want to stay rather than to what's easy to sell
  • The booking itself, placed so the upgrade and the credit are already attached
  • Restaurant recommendations, and the reservations that go with them
  • The shape of the week, including the driving times nobody warns you about
  • Telling you when a hotel you've set your heart on is the wrong one
WHERE TO GO NEXT

Now that you know who's doing the work.

Moss-covered stone steps leading up through tropical planting in Bali
Thirteen years of knowing which steps are worth climbing.
YOU KNOW WHO WE ARE NOW

Tell us who you are.

Who's coming, roughly when, and anything you're already curious about. Wayan and Sven read it themselves and answer themselves.

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