Como Uma Ubud: the hotel that felt like a warm blanket

Thirteen years ago, I landed in Bali for the first time and checked into the Oberoi in Seminyak. It was a stunning beach resort, impeccable and relaxed, but completely disconnected from the island around it. You could stay for weeks without ever really knowing where you were. It wasn't until my next stop, Como Uma Ubud, that everything changed. It felt like a warm blanket from the moment I arrived. The staff didn't encourage me to linger by the pool. They encouraged me to get out: excursions, temples, villages, rice fields, and to immerse myself in what Bali actually is. It worked. I was enchanted, and on that very first trip, I also met Wayan.

Over the years I kept returning, and each time my fascination grew for what makes this Ubud hotel so unique: harmony. Nothing here shouts for attention. Everything is considered, hushed and steeped in Balinese culture down to its bones, yet it feels unmistakably contemporary. Como Uma Ubud is exactly that: the point where tradition and modern design hold each other in balance.

A strategic place within the Como universe

Como runs a clear diversification strategy across Bali. On one end sits Como Shambhala, the ultra-luxurious, serene wellness retreat high above Ubud. On the other sits Como Uma Canggu, hip and beach-oriented. Como Uma Ubud positions itself somewhere in between, with location as its greatest strength. It sits centrally in Ubud yet just outside the bustle of the town centre, making it an ideal base for exploring: nature, temples, top-tier restaurants, art galleries and wellness are all within easy reach. Want the buzz of central Ubud? It's minutes away. Within the resort's walls, though, none of it reaches you. Only stillness does.

A culinary walk through the resort

On the street side of the hotel sits Uma Cucina, an Italian restaurant popular with expats that turns out to be surprisingly authentic, more authentic even than many restaurants I've visited in Italy itself. It's refreshingly unpretentious too. The staff are warm and endlessly accommodating, whether you're after a simple plate of pasta with a glass of wine or a full tasting menu. Both feel equally natural here.

Walk from the understated pool further back and you reach Uma Bar, an atmospheric, jazzy spot serving international dishes all day with a Como Shambhala signature: sustainable, healthy and imaginative. Ordinarily that's exactly the kind of kitchen I have little patience for. Here it simply works. The Indonesian menu also stands out for its quality and authenticity.

Follow the lush garden path further down and you arrive at Kemiri, an imaginative pavilion beside a koi pond that feels like stepping into a Balinese dream garden. This is where one of my favourite breakfasts on the island is served. The buffet is small, understandable given the climate, but the à la carte dishes are a dream.

I still occasionally dream about the zucchini and halloumi fritters with garlic labneh and smoked salmon.

Walk it off afterwards and you'll suddenly find yourself in a gym so sleek and modern it feels like a members-only space in New York. The resort is compact, but every single part of it has been thought through.

Rooms where the silence almost overwhelms you

The rooms, suites and villas are so minimalist and serene that they're almost intimidating. It works, because the effect is deeply atmospheric and absurdly clean. Designed by the acclaimed Japanese designer Koichiro Ikebuchi, the interiors breathe the spirit of a refined, contemporary Balinese hillside home. At first glance it's so pared back that you barely notice the subtle touches. For some guests that won't matter much, but for a snob like me, the bedding felt genuinely heavenly. It's a level few other hotels in Ubud reach.

The Como Shambhala hack

The spa sits hidden at the lower end of the resort with views over the valley and jungle, and that sense of seclusion is remarkably well preserved. Sister property Como Shambhala is regarded as one of the world's most celebrated spa destinations, and that same standard is clearly upheld here. I've often arranged bookings in the past for guests who weren't staying at Como Shambhala itself but still wanted that experience, at a considerably friendlier price through Como Uma Ubud. It's a genuine hack for anyone staying elsewhere on the island. It remains expensive compared to the countless budget salons scattered across Bali, but set against Como Shambhala, it's surprisingly good value.

Staff who know you by name

Then there's the staff, perhaps the real reason this hotel works as well as it does. Service here is deeply attentive without ever tipping into excess. It feels refined rather than performative. They know exactly who every guest is, the entire hotel greets you by name, and they make sure you get exactly what you need, whether that's a particular dish or a spa treatment.

Frustratingly all-round perfect

If you broke Como Uma Ubud down into categories, you'd consistently score every single one a nine. There are no weak points anywhere, and that's precisely what makes the hotel frustratingly, almost annoyingly, all-round perfect. It's certainly not a hotel that dazzles you on first impression. Its strength lies in consistency, and that is exactly what sets it apart from the rest.

In terms of value for money too, this ranks among the most compelling hotels you can book in Ubud. It's the ideal base for anyone chasing adventure in Bali, a sharp contrast to somewhere like Amankila, where you could easily stay within the grounds all day and where that's precisely the point.